NOTES ON SEVILLE: Falling back in love with Cava, Huelva Orange wine and Sherry
Seville isn’t trying to impress anyone - and that’s exactly what makes it so special. Unbothered by passing trends, full of culture and light, it’s a city that lets things speak for themselves. The food is proud and local, the pace is slow, and the drinks? They’ve been around for centuries - and feel anything but outdated when enjoyed in the right setting.
Cava, sherry and the orange wines of Huelva aren’t trying to reinvent themselves. They don’t need to. In a place like this, you’re reminded how brilliant they already are.
Cava - done properly
It breaks my heart a little that Cava still gets lumped in as the cheap alternative to Champagne. Sit on the terrace of the Hotel Alfonso XIII with a glass of Blanc de Blancs Cava as the sun starts to soften, and that notion falls apart instantly. This isn’t a knock-off - it’s a different kind of luxury. The kind that feels totally of its place.
The wine list here is classic and thoughtful. Cava is the gateway fizz for an evening of tapas and wandering - elegant but never fussy. When I’m back in the UK, I always look out for Brut Nature, Corpinnat or anything labelled Paraje Calificado. These are the wines that show how much DO Cava has stepped up its game - pushing for quality, terroir, and proper ageing.
Brand-wise, Parés Baltà is a solid go-to - their Gastronomic Rosado is wild. Long lees ageing gives it this creamy depth that still manages to feel bright and fresh. It’s like baked strawberries and sourdough crust in the best possible way.
The best pairings are the simplest: salty jamón ibérico (go for ‘de bellota’ if you see it), grilled prawns, or a bowl of olives.
Sherry – saline, complex and certainly underrated
Seville knows how to serve Sherry properly - no over-explaining, no gimmicks, just the right wine in the right glass at the right time. Casa Morales, just behind the cathedral, nails it. Dusty barrels, no bookings, standing room only - and a glass of Fino while you point out your pintxos from the cabinet.
You don’t need to know the ins and outs of the Solera system to get what makes Sherry special. Just try a cold Manzanilla with anchovies or almonds and you’ll get it.
For something more oxidative, head to El Rinconcillo, the city’s oldest bar, and ask for an Amontillado with grilled presa ibérica. Or level up with a seasonal En Rama release - unfiltered, raw, and full of texture.
Sherry still catches people out - but when it’s served right, it’s one of the most versatile, food-friendly wines on the planet.
Huelva Orange Wine – A Wild Card Worth Knowing
Just west of Seville, the region of Condado de Huelva is doing something a bit special - but still keeping it low-key. They’re making orange wines from Zalema, a local grape that gets fermented on skins and often aged under flor (that same yeasty layer you get with Sherry). So you get this coastal, savoury thing going on - but with a distinctly modern edge.
The really interesting ones incorporate dried Seville orange peel into the maceration. Not as a gimmick, but as a nod to local flavour. The oils bring grip and bitterness that balance out the fruit - think marmalade and apricot upfront, but with pith, salt, and spice on the finish. It’s textured, grown-up, and served chilled it’s the perfect compliment to the evening warmth.
You’re unlikely to stumble across it by accident, but ask for it at Vinería San Telmo or Ovejas Negras. Look out for Bodegas Contreras Ruiz - they’re leading the charge on this style. These wines love grilled seafood, salt cod, or anything with char.
Often, orange ‘wine shots’ are a fun way to taste without committing to a full glass, and can be served with your bill at the end of the evening - the photo above is from restaurant Torres y Garcia. Yum.
TO FINISH…
While other wine categories are chasing trends and trying to stay relevant, the wines of southwestern Spain are doing what they’ve always done - showing up, quietly brilliant, totally rooted in place. They don’t need a rebrand. They just need the right context.
And in Seville, the context is perfect.