A VERY ‘BLANC DE NOIRSY’ LONG WEEKEND
When most people reach for Champagne, they instinctively think of Blanc de Blancs - all citrus, chalk and finesse. But Blanc de Noirs is where things get interesting. Made exclusively from black grapes, usually Pinot Noir and Meunier, these wines carry more texture, depth and fruit weight. They’re still fresh and precise, but with enough substance to carry you from an apéritif through to the main course without breaking stride.
It’s also a style that’s quietly riding a wave of renewed attention. Grower producers are showcasing single-varietal Meunier with real finesse, while grandes marques are carving out prestige cuvées that champion Pinot Noir terroirs. At the same time, beyond Champagne, producers in Spain, Italy and England are exploring their own expressions of blanc de noirs. For drinkers who’ve already done the rounds of Brut NV and rosé, it feels like the natural ‘next step’ - familiar but with more intrigue, a point of difference without being niche.
Blanc de Noirs is also versatile at the table. The structure and flavour intensity make it one of the most food-friendly sparkling styles: a natural partner to roast chicken, duck breast, mushroom risotto, charcuterie or aged cheeses.
Here are some recent bottles I’ve enjoyed:
1. Champagne R. Faivre, L’Or de Faivre Blanc de Meuniers (FRANCE)
A 100% Meunier bottling from the Vallée de la Marne, a grape that’s often used in blends but rarely given the spotlight. Here it really shines. The flavours lean towards baked orchard fruit - imagine a pear tarte tatin or warm apple pie - with a touch of chamomile tea and pastry. That might sound rich, but the wine is lifted by a streak of freshness and a clean, chalky finish, so it never feels heavy. It’s incredibly drinkable and works with everything from charcuterie and pâté to roast chicken or a soft, creamy cheese.
2. Bollinger, PN TX17 (FRANCE)
This is Bollinger showing off its Pinot Noir. It’s centred on fruit from the village of Tauxières (hence the TX) in the 2017 harvest, with older reserve wines blended in. The style is plush and layered…think red apples, cherries, liquorice and strawberries, with notes of roasted nuts and a hint of cocoa. The richness gives it a broad, mouth-filling texture, but the finish is savoury and precise, which stops it from feeling too indulgent. If R. Faivre is your aperitif or Sunday lunch bottle, this is your Saturday night dinner wine - ideal with Asian-inspired duck, or anything you’d normally open a good still Pinot Noir for.
3. Raventós i Blanc, Textures de Pedra Blanc de Negres (SPAIN)
From Penedès in Spain, this is a completely different expression of Blanc de Noirs. Instead of Pinot Noir or Meunier, it blends native grapes like pink-skinned Xarel·lo Vermell, Sumoll and cheekily-named Bastard Negre. The wine has a subtle coppery tint and tastes savoury and saline, with flavours that feel more Mediterranean…wild strawberries, dried herbs, almonds, and a lick of sea spray. It’s refreshing but textural, the sort of wine that makes sense alongside a tapas spread - jamón ibérico (from Cinco Jotas, of course), manchego reserva, and salty Cantabrian anchovies.
FINAL FIZZ
The beauty of Blanc de Noirs is in its range. These wines carry enough weight to pair with food, enough freshness to keep pouring, and just enough difference to feel like the more interesting choice.
With growers pushing boundaries, grandes marques heroing terroir, and international producers playing with the concept, it’s no wonder Blanc de Noirs feels very en vogue right now.