I Tried All The By-The-Glass Trad Method Sparkling Wines At Vagabond So You Don’t Have To
Some people go to Vagabond for a glass of red and a flatbread. I go to conduct rigorous, highly personal research in the name of science.
A great by-the-glass list is such a deal breaker for me when choosing where to go. No bottle commitment, no corkage drama, just the ability to dip a toe into a flight of various effervescence.
While the still wines are mostly DIY, the sparkling options are kept behind the bar, rightly guarded and ready to pour. The Prosecco and Pet Nat simply weren’t going to cut it in the moment, so it had to be Méthode Traditionnelle...
On this visit, I ordered all four options. One English classic, one under-the-radar house cuvee, one safe-bet Champagne, and one intensely niche Seyval Blanc number that needs its own moment. They were all decently priced, ranging from £12 to £19. I would have also reviewed the Roederer 243, which was £19, but it had sold out (sob).
Here’s how they landed...
1. Langham Corillian Classic Cuvee, Dorset (England)
Score: 8/10
Langham is the kind of English fizz that quietly clears its throat and reminds you we’re not just playing Champagne dress-up anymore. Corallian is the perfect embodiment of its Dorset terroir – chalky acidity, salinity, and zippy citrus that is balanced by the buttered-toast flavour you get when autolysis is done right. It’s serious, structured, and could probably talk you into quitting your job and moving to Dorset. Caution recommended.
2. Nature Series Cuvee by Artelium Wine x Vagabond Wines, Sussex (England)
Score: 9.5/10
Unassuming label, zero fanfare, full slay. This house pour is the kind of wine that natural wine people would gatekeep if they could. It’s got texture, a bit of funk, a whisper of cider, and a foamy mousse that’s super soft. There’s some light oxidation in the very best way – baked apple, some marzipan, and a note of liquorice. I’d order it again before the glass was empty – it’s seriously complex and delicious.
3. Jean Comyn ‘So Blendy’, Champagne (France)
Score: 7/10
This is Champagne doing exactly what you expect it to do. Golden fruit, a bit of brioche, almonds, clean bubbles – it's polite company. Textbook per se, but maybe from an older edition... There’s nothing wrong with it, but next to the more energetic English options, it felt a little beige. Lovely, timeless, but not about to get the party started.
4. Breaky Bottom ‘Cuvee Brian James’ Seyval Blanc, East Sussex (England)
Score: 8.5/10
Seyval Blanc is having a bit of a moment in wine circles. It’s the grape equivalent of the girl who brings obscure philosophical references to dinner. This wine is sharp, saline, and very intellectual (I wonder if I’d get that mark on my SAT...). There’s a bit of lemon preserve, some herbal lift, and a stony sort of restraint. It’s technically very lovely, but I was craving an experience in the glass that stands up to great conversation in a loud bar. I’ll be filing it under: would drink again, but perhaps at lunch, with oysters and no small talk.
FINAL FIZZ
This is why I enjoy an evening at Vagabond: you can create a bespoke tasting flight without needing to sell a kidney to afford it.
English sparkling came out swinging – full of character, tension, and zero interest in being ‘Champagne-lite’. The Jean Comyn did what Champagne does, while Breaky Bottom (still getting over typing the name) reminded me that not all fizz is here to flirt.
The surprise hero? Vegabond’s collaboration with Artelium. Quietly iconic, and as a gold medal winner (with 95 points) at the 2025 IWSC tasting, clearly others agree with me.
So yes, I tried all the by-the-glass trad method options at Vagabond so you don’t have to. But you really should. Perhaps start with the house pour, and see where the night takes you...